The Forgotten Treasures of the Butcher’s Counter
As I push open the heavy wooden door of Camperdown Elm, the aromas of sizzling fat and seared proteins immediately whisk me away to a simpler time – a time when every part of the animal was revered and transformed into a delectable dish. This Brooklyn-based restaurant, nestled in the heart of Cobble Hill, has made it their mission to breathe new life into the forgotten cuts of meat, reminding us all that there’s more to the animal than just the prime steaks and chops.
“When I first started working in restaurants, it always bothered me to see how much perfectly good meat was being discarded,” recalls Chef Caroline, the mastermind behind Camperdown Elm’s ingenious menu. “Nose-to-tail dining is a philosophy that’s been around for centuries, but it’s only recently started to gain mainstream popularity. We wanted to take that concept and really run with it.”
And run with it, they have. As I peruse the menu, my eyes are immediately drawn to the sections labeled “Offal”, “Cheeks and Shanks”, and “Underappreciated Bovine”. Intrigued, I decide to dive headfirst into this culinary adventure, reserving judgment until my taste buds have had their say.
Offal: Organ-ic Delights
I’ll admit, the thought of eating organ meats like liver, kidneys, and heart doesn’t exactly fill me with unbridled enthusiasm. Growing up, these cuts were often relegated to the family dog or used as bargaining chips to get us kids to finish our vegetables. But as I take my first bite of Camperdown Elm’s crispy-fried sweetbreads, I’m utterly transfixed.
“Offal has such a bad reputation, doesn’t it?” Chef Caroline chuckles, noticing my initial hesitation. “People think it’s weird or gross, but the truth is, these are some of the most flavorful and nutrient-dense parts of the animal. You just have to know how to prepare them properly.”
And that, it seems, is the key. While the uninitiated may recoil at the thought of liver pâté or braised oxtail, in the hands of a skilled chef, these “forgotten” cuts can be transformed into culinary masterpieces. At Camperdown Elm, the beef tongue is braised until it’s meltingly tender, then shredded and tucked into a fluffy steamed bun, while the chicken livers are whipped into a silky smooth mousse, served with crisp crostini and a drizzle of fig jam.
As I savor each bite, I can’t help but marvel at the depth of flavor and the sheer artistry on display. These are not mere scraps, but rather, the hidden gems of the animal kingdom – bursting with umami, brimming with vitamins and minerals, and just waiting to be rediscovered.
Cheeks and Shanks: Slow-Cooked Treasures
Moving on from the offal, I turn my attention to the “Cheeks and Shanks” section of the menu, where I find a veritable treasure trove of slow-cooked delights. The oxtail ragu, for instance, is simmered for hours until the meat falls off the bone, infusing the sauce with a rich, beefy complexity that perfectly coats the al dente pappardelle. And the lamb shank, braised in a fragrant mix of red wine, garlic, and rosemary, is so tender that it practically melts on my tongue.
“These are the kinds of dishes that our grandparents used to make,” Chef Caroline explains, her eyes sparkling with enthusiasm. “Back in the day, people didn’t have the luxury of throwing away perfectly good meat. They had to get creative and find ways to transform the tougher, less desirable cuts into something truly special.”
As I nod in agreement, I can’t help but wonder why these culinary traditions fell by the wayside. Was it the rise of fast food and convenience cooking? The ever-increasing demand for lean, boneless proteins? Or perhaps a simple lack of patience and culinary know-how in the modern era?
Regardless of the reasons, one thing is clear: Camperdown Elm is doing its part to revive these long-forgotten techniques. By slow-cooking the meat to perfection and pairing it with thoughtful, complementary flavors, they’re not only creating dishes that are out of this world delicious, but also honoring the rich cultural heritage of nose-to-tail dining.
Underappreciated Bovine: Beef Beyond the Basics
As I move on to the “Underappreciated Bovine” section of the menu, I can’t help but feel a sense of excitement and anticipation. What culinary wonders await me in this uncharted territory of beef?
My curiosity is quickly piqued by the inclusion of items like beef cheeks, Denver cuts, and even beef tail. “These are all parts of the animal that people tend to overlook,” Chef Caroline explains, “but they’re actually packed with flavor and can be transformed into some really amazing dishes.”
The beef cheeks, for instance, are braised until they’re fall-apart tender, then shredded and tossed with a tangy, zesty gremolata. The Denver cut, a lesser-known shoulder muscle, is seared to perfection and served with a rich, velvety bordelaise sauce. And the beef tail, which I’ll admit I’ve never even seen on a menu before, is slow-cooked until it’s imbued with a deep, beefy essence, then served over a bed of creamy polenta.
As I savor each bite, I’m struck by the sheer depth of flavor and the textural complexity of these dishes. It’s a far cry from the ubiquitous filet mignon or strip steak, and yet, it’s equally, if not more, satisfying.
“I think a lot of people have gotten so used to the same old cuts of meat that they’ve forgotten just how diverse and delicious the entire animal can be,” Chef Caroline muses. “But that’s what we’re here to change. We want to inspire people to think outside the box, to rediscover the joy of cooking and eating these forgotten treasures.”
A Passion for Provenance
As I wipe the last traces of my meal from my plate, I can’t help but feel a sense of renewed appreciation for the art of butchery and the importance of utilizing every part of the animal. It’s a philosophy that not only honors the life that was taken, but also helps to reduce waste and promote sustainability.
“At the end of the day, it’s all about respecting the animal and the hard work that goes into bringing it to our tables,” Chef Caroline explains, her voice brimming with conviction. “When you use every part of the animal, you’re not only creating delicious food, but you’re also supporting the local farmers and ranchers who are committed to ethical, responsible practices.”
And that’s precisely what Camperdown Elm is all about. By sourcing their meat from small, family-owned farms and working closely with their purveyors, they’re not only ensuring the highest quality ingredients, but also supporting the local community and the sustainable food movement.
“It’s important to us to know where our food comes from,” Chef Caroline continues. “We want to be able to trace the journey of each ingredient, from the farmer’s field to our kitchen. That’s why we’re so passionate about these forgotten cuts of meat – they represent a connection to the land, to the animals, and to the rich culinary traditions that have sustained us for generations.”
As I bid farewell to Camperdown Elm, I can’t help but feel a renewed sense of wonder and appreciation for the art of butchery and the beauty of nose-to-tail dining. These forgotten cuts of meat are not merely scraps, but rather, the hidden gems of the culinary world – bursting with flavor, nutrition, and a deep, abiding connection to the land and the animals that sustain us.
And with trailblazers like Camperdown Elm leading the way, I have no doubt that these once-overlooked delicacies will soon be rightfully elevated to their rightful place on the culinary stage.